Our trip last year to the Bahamas was a little underwhelming to our social life. We met some really terrific people, but learned that when surrounded by an older crowd the key is to have a baby around. Otherwise, as a young couple on a small boat you may as well be invisible.
Well, we’re not ready for a baby so hopefully the cutest puppy imaginable is the next best thing!?!?! Everyone is planning to invite us over to see their boat, go on a fishing adventure and explore a new beach now, right??!? Let’s have a long and fascinating conversation about our sailing adventures and the cruising lifestyle that doesn’t end with condescending comments like: “Do you know what radar is?” or “Do you have charts?”
So, we’ve had our hands full the last couple of weeks with our newest addition! This has been in the works for many months now, and it was finally decided that the Captains needed their “Crew.”
Crew is a Miniature Australian Shepherd. Today was his first puppy training day and he is at the top of his class with “sit” and “down.” He’s gone for his first swim, sailed in the new dinghy and likes to hang out on Velocir!
(All joking aside about babies and puppies, Crew brings joy to our lives that far exceeds any wistful social life….the part about being an invisible young couple on a small boat is not far from the truth.)
The cost of cruising is always a hot debate. The general rule is that the smaller you go, the less expensive. Every foot of boat increases costs exponentially. The Albin Vega is about the smallest one can go in, and we think our costs reflected that.
Many people are curious about these things, and we hope this is helpful for any planners out there.
Amelia has tackled the ominous mega-binder of everything Velocir to bring you a pretty fair outline of our costs.
Ways We Saved Money:
– Grant’s employee discount at Bacon Sails, so most of our budget was slashed 30%
– Buying a large portion of our materials and gear secondhand.
– Wedding gifts (tools, cookware, safety gear, SPOT, AIS etc)
– Lived with family and on Velocir while working
– Completed all installation and work ourselves
– Under age 26 (health care covered through parents)
– No debt to pay
– We were given hand-me-downs and many materials were lying around the family workshop
How much do you spend before you even leave!?! Many people, Grant included, are very wary of knowing the actual cost of outfitting Velocir. Well, Amelia can’t calculate it 100% anyways because we didn’t keep perfect track. We’d also like to point out that we went above and beyond in preparation. It was worth it for us, but many of these things certainly do not need to be completed before going cruising. It was as much a journey as it was an education. Velocir was not purchased to go cruising. Amelia got it with her Dad as a father-daughter project and completely re-built it from the hull up. A budget-minded cruiser would probably buy an already outfitted boat to save time and money. But then you can’t have it “your way” and know every inch of your boat. Ah, compromise.
Approximate Total Cost: $27,000 (without employee discount 30% more)
To give a sense of our discount here are a few stats:
– Our New Sails: $2768 (Retail $5500)
– Our Chain: 85 cents a foot (Retail $3 afoot)
Our cruising costs are 100% accurate. Every receipt was recorded into a spreadsheet and reviewed monthly. Our goal was to spend no more than $1000 a month. As you can see, the average cost per month was $920, and could have been less if not for our towing incident! The total we spent during 8 months was $7421. It turns out, once the boat is cruising-ready, it is the cheapest thing we can do. (Not many lifestyles where you do not pay to sleep at night.)
Month 1 (Annapolis, MD to Wrightsville Beach, NC)
Boat Items: cleaning supplies, hose fittings, fasteners, extra manual water pump, deck wash pump
Misc Items: surf wax, cleaning supplies, books, postcards, fishing supplies, fishing license, etc.
Month 2 (Wrightsville Beach, NC to St. Augustine, FL)
Boat: new Nature Head composting toilet, hose, installation parts
Dockage/Mooring: St. Augustine
Misc: fishing supplies, leisure
Month 3 (St. Augustine, FL to Marsh Harbor, Abacos)
Boat: oil, fasteners, hardware, paint
Dockage/Mooring: Cocoa, FL
Misc: Bahamian Customs, snorkeling gear, fishing gear, rum
Month 4 (Marsh Harbor, Abacos to Governors Harbor, Eleuthera)
Dockage/Mooring: Spanish Wells Mooring
Misc: rum, beer, taxi
Month 5 (Governors Harbor Eleuthera to Georgetown, Exumas)
Misc: rum, ice, festival tshirts
Month 6 (Georgetown, Exumas to Morgans Bluff, Andros)
Dockage/Mooring: Fresh Creek, Andros 3 nights
Misc: straw market, Androsia
Month 8 (Fort Pierce, FL to Morehead City, NC)
Boat: tow offshore, hoses
Dockage/Mooring: Fort Pierce, FL (towing related), St. Augustine mooring & NC
Misc: books, taxi to customs, local art
Month 9 (Morehead City, NC to Annapolis, MD)
A long winded discourse on our sails and why we chose them.
Small sails, big sails, old sails, new sails, high tech sails, old school sails, cheap sails, expensive sails and the sails that came with our boat fit into the cheap and old categories. I worked for 2 years at Bacon Sails and Marine Supplies in Annapolis, Maryland. Around since the 1950’s, Bacons is a family-owned consignment and new marine gear shop that specializes in used sails; and more recently new ones. My job title: “Sail Inspector”. Although the job came with neither badge nor magnifying glass I learned more than I ever thought you could know about sails.
Sails are like a dress for your boat, you want a dress to look good and fit well. There are also about as many possibilities for a dress as there are for sails. I had seen so many designs and materials I wanted to put the lessons and my newfound knowledge to work; and with my employee discount I could!
I could have gone with a classic cross cut dacron sail, the kind you see on 90% of sailboats, but if we are building sails for our boat I want the best I can get.( FYI Dacron is a brand name like Band-Aid or Kleenex) Time after time I kept seeing these old sails come in just beat to hell and still holding together and with more shape than any Dacron sail its age. Cruise Laminate is, as the name says, a laminate, but not the plastic material (mylar) you see on race boats. Cruise Laminate is most commonly made up of two layers of Dacron sandwiched over a grid of a white string looking material called pentex, the grid of pentex provides a rigid strength far superior to Dacron alone.
Sun is a sails number one enemy, Dacron will turn yellow and become extremely brittle, its called “sun rot”. Cruise laminate will not only hold its shape better, be stronger per weight of cloth compared to its Dacron counterpart, but will last longer. I have seen sails where the Dacron has completely rotted away in sections, but was held together by the pentex. Cruise Laminate has its own problems too. Older versions of the cloth were notorious for having the laminate separate which ruins the sail and all Cruise Laminates are susceptible to having mold and mildew grow inside the laminate and spread throughout. The mildew is merely a cosmetic issue, the whole sail can turn black and be fine and the cloth is now made with anti-mildew chemicals in it, but it is a problem.
So we decided the positives outweighed the negatives and went with a 7oz (weight of the cloth) genoa and an 8oz main in Cruise Laminate. The sails were all stitched with a strong triple throw style stitching with Tenara thread. Sail thread is a frequent weakness in sails, often if the Dacron survives into old age the thread will rot and usually on the leach of the sail (trailing edge of the sail). Suncovers on rollerfurling genoas often need to be restitched several times in their lives.Tenara is a Goretex based thread which is sun stable, ie does not sunrot. Our suncovers and our entire sails were stitched with this thread and our leach is a heavier weight of Dacron so it will last longer.
Most sails are horizontal bands on Dacron stitched together, called “crosscut”; strong a simple. Our sails are known as “tri-radial”, the panels of cloth radiate out from the three corners of the sail. The reason for this is that the sails can be designed with a 3-d shape cut into them, computers design the shape and tell you how to cut the panels and assemble the sail. The sails definitely improved our pointing. For most cruising boats the cost-benefit ratio of this style is generally not worth it, but for us it was negligible.
Our main sail is loose footed, which means the bottom or “foot” of the sail is only connected at the tack and clew. This gives the bottom of the sail a cleaner shape and the ability to have a line inside the foot to adjust for shape. Sails traditionally had the foot slide into the boom or had little slides to attach it. The general consensus is the materials of today make the sail and boom strong enough it is not necessary to distribute its load along the boom like that.
Battens, oh the great batten debate. Battens are the (generally fiberglass) sticks in the sail that help give it a good rigid shape. Many cruisers will go with fully battened sails, which means the battens run the full width of the sail. This gives the sail a flatter shape and a generally good trim in all points of sail, but on the other hand mean you can’t adjust the sail shape much, they can be somewhat of a bear to wrangle when flaking or reefing, and really load up pressure on the mast side which can lead to problems when gear weakens over time.
I love to fuss with sails, I enjoy tweaking things here and there as we sail along, it’s a game, it gives me an activity as we sail. So I went with what is called a “powerhead” setup. The top two battens are full while the bottom two battens are standard (ie go about 1/4-1/3 in from the leach). This means I get some of the plusses of full battens, but the body of the sail can still get some belly to it with some adjusting. We also got batten keepers that were lashed shut, not velcroed. Velcro will go bad faster than anything else on the sail and really how often are you taking out your battens that you need the speed of Velcro.
We went with two reef points rather than the classic cruiser three. Our reef points each take away 33% of the sail area, so they are quite deep. On our Bahamas trip we thankfully never had to use the second reef. The reason for this was less weight hanging in the sail which would hurt us in light air and less gear to lead back, in such a small boat the reinforcements in the sail and the lines hanging on it can make a big difference.
Again, sails are like a dress, they should be a good fit and ideally a tailored fit. We measured everything 3 times over and altered the measurements from our old sails. We took about a foot off of the leach of the main sail so the boom would be just over head level in the cockpit. We made our genoa on the smaller side, 130% so we could roller reef and get good shape, in beam reaches or below we would fly the asymmetrical spinnaker, so we would only miss a big genoa head upwind in light airs. More often than not on our trip the genoa had at least a little reefing in it. We also had the genoa cut a little higher so we could see under it better from the cockpit.
The leach line for the mainsail was run overhead through a turning block at the top of the sail (head) down to adjust at the tack. Now we could adjust the leach shape at the mast rather than trying to get to it out on the end of the boom since when I want to adjust it is when we are reaching or on a run. After using the sails for a year I have decided while this is good in theory, this setup has too much friction in a sail this small. It worked, but not as well as I would have liked.
Along the luff of every good roller furling genoa is some sort of padding, usually foam or rope. The reason for this is that when the sail is on a roller furler it can only reef so far before the sail becomes really baggy, which you really want a flat sail when reefing. Padding at the front of the sail helps bulk up the first few turns to give a flatter reef. Foam is the cheaper option, but over time will compact and stay that way. So we had 3 pieces of polypropylene rope in descending lengths on our luff.
Again and again I saw shortcuts and problems with the design of suncovers on roller furling genoas. Firstly, unless you are racing, I think Sunbrella should be used for suncovers. Yes they weigh more than other options, but they last 3 times longer than other options and are easily replaced. Adhesive sun treated Dacron doesn’t work well and its remnants will look awful on the sail. I have also frequently seen a shiny mylar material that is also terrible. There is a vinyl like material that works ok, but is only slightly cheaper than Sunbrella and Sunbrella works so much better!
Also make sure if your genoa has new suncovers put on that they wrap the suncover all the way around the edges of the sail. Often for cheapness or laziness the suncovers will be folded under themselves leaving the leach and foot tabling of the sail exposed to the sun. Though it may look like it will be fine, they will rot and your leaching will catch on the spreaders and tear it to pieces, happens all the time.
Draft stripes, often a dark line of Dacron across the middle of the sail help you see the shape of your sails and are quite useful on bright days looking at a white triangle. We also found a product called Glofast which makes adhesive Dacron for draft stripes and whipping line that GLOWS in the dark. We have 2 glowing draft stripes on the main that really helped us see our sails and their shape on dark nights. The stuff will last the entire night and they are bright! It is comforting to see the sails with such ease on a dark night especially dead down wind, it helped us see the luff bubbling warning us of a possible accidental jibe.
My final piece of unsolicited advice is to protect your sails from the sun. Put the cover on the main sail, zip up your stack pack, and make sure the sail is totally covered. The biggest thing though is to take your sails down when you are not using them! If you are not using the boat in the winter take off the sails. Though they are covered, the sun will still get to them. If you hang up your boats dress and take care of it, they will last so much longer. Sails on a SAILboat are expensive and often neglected.
Spinnakers! Light air and down wind nothing beats a spinnaker. Huge area of sail and made with material 1/6th of the weight of your normal sails. Cruisers today love asymmetrical spinnakers, aka gennaker, aka cruising chute. Similar to a traditional spinnaker, but with no spinnaker pole to deal with, fewer control lines, and easier to jibe. Mostly they come in 0.75oz or 1.5oz rip-stop nylon. Usually boats over 40ft will use 1.5oz, but we found a good deal on a used 1.5oz asymmetrical at Bacon Sails. We love everything to be stronger than is necessary and we had some fun flying our heavy duty spinnaker in over 25kts.
Spinnakers are often used today with a snuffer, aka sock, aka spinnaker condom. A snuffer is a tube with a rigid mouth and a body of lightweight material used to help set and douse the sail. They make handling a spinnaker so much easier. They can be expensive, but we made our own without too much hassle and never had a problem with it. The two main types are chute scoop (budget) and ATN (Expensive French now made in China, but decent quality still).
Part of using an asymmetrical spinnaker is having a tack line. Asym’s are awesome because they can be sailed from a beam reach on down. Part of this is adjusting the tension of the luff with a tack line. Asym’s are meant to be flown in front of the boat, great for bow sprits but not so great for us production boats where the bow pulpit is the most forward thing of the boat. Our bow pulpit is well attached so we welded a ring on its front and ran the tackline back from that.
Another piece of Asym gear on a common production boat is something to keep the tack of the sail in. When on a run you loosen up the tack line, so the sail wants to slide out sideways usually putting the tackline’s tension on the top of the bow pulpit, which can chafe it or when the sail luffs hard bend the pulpit. So many people will use something attached to the tack of the sail that goes around the roller furler. This allows the sail to slide up and down the furled sail as you adjust the tack line tension, keeping the asym in the center of the boat. ATN sells its “tacker” which does this quite well, though I have been on a boat with a tacker with a cheap shackle that kept failing. We have a piece of wire with two eyes and plastic beads (perroll beads) in the middle that roll up and down. The tacker seems to work best, but they are unnecessarily expensive (so what else is new with boats).
So, that’s all the big stuff I learned working on sails for 2 years and how it translated itself onto our boat. I hope this hasn’t been too long winded and can help somebody. Some will disagree with my opinions and observations, but people agree on sails about as much as anchors.
There was a lot of excitement about getting back to a house. This last month we had really been pushing ourselves with long days. Laundry and other projects had been put aside.
We LOVED our trip but there were some things to be desired- showers, real bed where you can stretch your legs out, standing up straight inside, refrigeration/freezer, and knowing when it rains the bed will stay dry/and when there is a storm, waves will not roll you. It’s not that many things, but we do miss them after 8 months of cruising and 11 months of living aboard Velocir.
As a special treat, our family and friends gave us a welcome-home party! So much delicious food and amazing to see everyone again. It was a taco party, and we made white sangria like we’d had in St. Augustine. There was also tons of ice cream and cake!!
We had waited in Old Point Comfort, VA two days for good weather. It would take us three days (140ish miles) and realistically the weather didn’t look good for the entire week. Our family had planned a party and relatives were coming- oh no!
It was a tough to be so close but yet so far. We’d gone out and come back one morning when NOAA called for S 10-15 knots but it was ENE 25 knots all day. With 4 ft choppy swell on our beam, Velocir couldn’t make much speed and we were getting tossed around, so it wasn’t worth it.
The next day the wind finally turned S 25-30 knots. A bit rough for Velocir, but we were headed N so the angle to the waves was okay. We put up our main with a reef in it, kept the engine going and let out a scrap on genoa that keeps us from rolling in heavy seas downwind. We were screaming down the bay at 7.5 knots the whole day!!!! From 6AM to 8PM we made 98 miles to Solomons, MD. Quite a feat for us and a distance we’d thought would take two days.
The Chesapeake is fun because instead of bouys our new marks are historic lighthouses.
Amelia saw some major commercial fishing on the Chesapeake Bay near the entrance to the Rappahannock that she didn’t know existed. There were three massive blue fishing trawlers (like you would see in Alaska). Bigger than shrimping trawlers, probably over 150 ft. They were doing circles off the channel, which was very confusing to us and other cruisers around us. Many people tried to call them on the radio but they did not respond.
As we got closer, Amelia realized each huge trawler was momma boat to two 30 foot silver fishing boats that were open-deck and had two giant 20 foot cranes on deck. The cranes supported giant nets, and the two smaller fishing boats would circle around dropping the nets and picking them up again, while the huge trawler circled them. (Three groups of momma trawler with 2 crane boats)
To complete the whole process, two white planes circled them in the sky the whole time, obviously a part of the fleet. Amelia was surprised this kind of fishing went on in the Bay?!? Also worried because she spotted a sea turtle nearby.
We made it to Solomons, MD with an hour of daylight left to spare, staying at a friend’s dock. Our last day is tomorrow!!!!
After a relaxing day at the town dock in Oriental, NC we headed out into calm calm weather and were greeted by a beautiful sunrise. The wind picked up as predicted mid-morning so instead of motoring inside the waterway, we sailed around a few peninsulas before coming up the Pungo River to Belhaven, NC.
Calm as can be outside Oriental, NC! Later that night in the Pungo River massive thunderstorms swarmed around us. To our north, lightening continued in bright bursts for hours and hours! It was fun to watch and we didn’t get directly hit.
The next day we motored through the Alligator River, which we’d skipped on our way down last Fall by sailing near the Outer Banks. It was a straight canal, with submerged logs and stumps everywhere. Thankfully no collisions! We made it to Elizabeth City a day later, sailing across the Albemarle Sound. It was some great sunny weather and warmer temperatures!
When we finally reached the Dismal Swamp Canal we felt home-free! Almost back to Annapolis. (After this we are practically in the Chesapeake Bay!) The swamp canal was just a beautiful as we’d remembered. Lots of birds, tons of turtles and lily pads.
The first lock, South Mills, raised Velocir up 8 feet with water gushing in.
At our second lock, Deep Creek, we added a conch shell to the lockmaster’s collection. The conch garden is quite full!
We headed to an anchorage we like near Old Point Comfort, VA. It was so close from the Dismal Swamp Canal but many obstacles were in our path. The only scheduled bridge was on a temporary schedule, so it was opening less-frequently than we thought. By the time it opened, a train bridge in front of it had come down and a train was stopped in the middle, not moving. It took two hours and there was a huge pile-up of boats waiting!
Now we will sit near Old Point Comfort for a weather window to sail north up the Chesapeake!
After Charleston last weekend, we sure have been struggling in the cold weather the past few days!!
While Amelia was on watch a bunch of dolphins were playing in the channel. They don’t usually get that curious about Velocir, but came over to check us out. Amelia got really excited and took a picture. Seconds later, Velocir was aground. It didn’t even seem like we were really outside of the channel, and we weren’t very close to shore either. It took about 5 minutes of maneuvering and we were off! (Beware of tricky dolphins!!) And we didn’t even get a very good picture… :(
Grant was on watch the next day. It was raining and he saw a small group of men standing on the side of the waterway under a tree. He assumed they were trying to get out of the rain. Then, Grant witnessed them take a body and throw it off the cliff. He was pretty freaked out!!
As we got closer, Grant saw a fire truck, ambulance and more trucks. The men were wearing yellow safety gear. We realized the body was a “dummy” and they were doing a safety drill. (In the photo the “body” it the little curved lump on the beach towards the left).
After that shock was over, we continued a little farther. Amelia was down below cooking some scrambled eggs with cheddar cheese. All of the sudden the boat jolted to a stop, like a car crash, and threw both of us forward. Grant did a face plant into the cockpit, bruising his face. Amelia fell into the table in the main cabin, testing it’s strength. Amelia just remembers falling, seeing the flame on the oven with no food, and then immediately turning the propane off. Breakfast, pan and all, had fallen behind the stove. Just some bruises…but if we had been injured the safety team rescuing the dummy was still close-by!
We assume that we hit a submerged log. The waterway is covered with fallen trees, it is not uncommon (picture above). But this was different than running aground. When you run aground, it is a somewhat gentle weird lurching feeling, like you are bumping and sliding along the bottom. This was a crash, an immediate jolt to a stop. We had never experienced this before.
Velocir got off the submerged object with a little rocking. No contact was made to the rudder or propeller luckily. Hopefully all is well with our keel. We wanted to dive on it but there is no visibility in the water! (Needless to say, Amelia had bad dreams that night. They involved running aground in a marshy area and a battered keel on Velocir).
We improved our week by staying at a marina we like in Barefoot Landing, SC. They have really nice showers and a hot tub. It was so cold out but we were relaxing!
It has begun to warm up as we head for North Carolina. We are even getting birds on Velocir, trying to scoop up some bugs on our deck!
After spending time with family friends in Beaufort, SC, we are back to our trek northward. Every day we are trying to get 40-60 miles (8-12 hour days). We travel at about 5 mph. This is a lot faster than the way down, where we did 15-25 mile days, mostly under sail which made us usually slower.
We spent a rainy but beautiful weekend walking around Charleston. Some great food, a fun Farmer’s Market and sailboats racing in the harbour. The town is just restaurants, clothing stores and houses so we took advantage of the fine cuisine with a night out for sushi!
We enjoyed walking through the city last fall, but we especially enjoyed it in the spring with all the flowers out. We even stumbled upon the carriage houses of Charleston. There were 4-5 of these large buildings full of horses and carriages. One carriage looked like a Princess carriage and was all dressed up.
After two rainy days walking around town, we pulled up anchor on an equally rainy morning. We had two anchors down, a bahamian moor, because of the current (to keep us from swinging a lot). So, we pulled up our primary anchor first, fell back (down current) onto our secondary anchor and pulled it up. Charleston harbor is pretty mucky!
As we were heading out of the harbor we noticed a 40 foot Beneteau tacking back and forth under genoa sail alone. They were trying to head up current with less than 5 knots of breeze. Really, they were drifting backwards in the channel towards a bridge.
We realized their engine may not be working and they probably needed help. Sure enough, they were in need of assistance so we offered them a tow. They accepted so we readied our 120 foot long yellow 1” polypro line we tow our dinghy Raptor on. We have never cut it short in case of a situation like this where we received or gave a tow. Amelia led it to the winch for a strong hold, then threaded it back to the chock for a good lead.
Velocir was much smaller than them and we hadn’t towed anyone before, but we went slow and it went smoothly. Amelia tossed the line solidly, and they used the big looped end to secure it to their boat.
Grant maneuvered us across the channel over to Charleston City Marina, where two staff members were standing on a dock waiting for us. As we got closer, a trawler started to motor out of the narrow channel between the piers. The two young dock staff told us a boat was coming out of the marina and to get out of its way. We were up current and under tow, so we stopped, radioed them and asked that they give us the right of way. Actually, we kind of demanded it.
In the confusion of this, the boat we were towing decided they were close enough and let go. We didn’t really make a judgment call on this decision and just went with it. It was too early to let go. They drifted in the current to the left dock instead of the right dock (picture above). After making light contact with the sailboat on the left dock (people were onboard) another boat got it’s dinghy going and passed lines over to the right dock. Within 10 minutes they were all tied up and secure.
However, Amelia would like to point out that she saw a Charleston City Marina runabout boat on several occasions during our time anchored nearby. At no point did they attempt to assist in any way beyond having line handlers on the dock. Maybe there is some liability reason, but it seemed odd, because they were in radio contact with the sailboat and aware of the situation but did nothing to help.
Happy Easter! We decorated some eggs and ate a bunch of candy.
After our busy social scene in St. Augustine, we headed to an anchorage we like on the Ft. George River in Georgia. It is by one of America’s oldest plantation homes. The windy weather ended, making for some good surf (we hoped!)
We took the dinghy Raptor and surf board to an inlet south of Little Talbot State Park, where to our surprise the beach was easily accessible. The surf was wrapping around the point perfectly. Grant used his bisecting longboard we keep in the v-berth. It has two sections that clip together with a rod in the middle for support.
Grant got a few good rides in. Amelia took a few tries for fun, but still can’t seem to stand up yet!
Grant also had a close call with the authorities this week. After his surf session, we were back at our anchorage. We were the only boat in a remote river, so Grant commenced showering in the cockpit. Minutes later, a Sheriff’s police boat zoomed up. They started shouting about how Velocir was dragging at anchor. Then, they realized Grant’s precarious position and yelled, “Hey man, you got pants on?” Grant replied, “no, you guys have perfect timing” (Note: extremely effective tactic to keep law enforcement at a distance…also true in this case).
Amelia came up from below and saved Grant. “You were way over there this morning,” the police boat insisted, pointing up current from Velocir. “Yes, but we have out some good scope and as the current moves our boat will too,” explained Amelia. (Just to clarify, we were not dragging). Then, they asked where our boat was registered, where we were going and where we came from. All simple questions, and soon they were on their way. Grant finished his shower with no more interruptions.
We headed the next day to Fernandina Beach, a cute beach town. On the radio we heard someone calling Sandpiper. It could have been anyone, but sure enough it was our friends from Georgetown! We walked around town and had dinner with them. It was fun to catch up on where we had both gone since Georgetown. They have been ambitious, sailing offshore quite a lot.
The next day we visited Cumberland Island, one of our favorite stops last Fall. This time the beach had even more shells!
We saw two groups of wild horses for the first time on Cumberland Island!!
Now we are trudging through Georgia. Six days of motoring, with a little genoa every now and then helping us keep our speed up in the current. It’s a lot of marshland and curvy rivers. Every inlet we see at least one US Border Protection boat is zooming around, but they never seem to bother anyone.